Mindo - Ecuador
Destinations
Mindo is world famous as
a birdwatching destination but there are plenty of other activities on
offer as well. You can go tubing on the rivers, horseriding
through beautiful scenery, hiking in the forests or soaring between the
trees suspended from a
zipwire or 'canopy' as they are known in Mindo.
For less energetic moments, lounge in a hammock
watching hummingbirds, take a leisurely tour of a butterfly
farm, admire the many different varieties of orchid or enjoy a 'frog
concert' and night walk to enjoy the magical sounds of a Mindo evening.
Watch out for flocks of parrots flying over at dusk.
The best time to visit
Mindo is
probably between May and December, when the weather is drier, but no
matter when you are in Ecuador, Mindo is a must-see. The
climate is warm all year round. It rains most in January and
April, a little less in Feburary and
March but it is still wet and the roads and trails will be muddy.
Whenever you visit you will see hummingbirds, but
the rain does limit forest access and the number of other
birds you
will
see. Tubing on the rivers may not
be
possible when water levels are very low in the dry season or
when
the current is too fast at the height of the rainy season.
Mindo has a wide range of
accommodation to suit all budgets, from cheap and cheerful through
comfortable and rustic up to luxury lodgings with jacuzzis.
Our favourite is Mariposas
de Colores,
a handful of rustic cabañas (cabins) around a lake in
peaceful
surroundings. (It is in the process of renaming itself Mindo Lago). For a
group of eight people sharing
the
largest cabin, prices work out at around $16 per person per night,
rising to around $32 per person in a double cabaña,
including
breakfast, the 'frog concert' and access to the butterfly house.
15% discount for readers of this site - see Special
Offers
&
Discounts for details.
At the cheapest end of
the scale, the basic but friendly El
Rocio
B&B has dormitory accommodation from $7 and rooms from $10 with
shared bathrooms. Suites ($25-40) have private bathrooms.
Breakfast is $2 extra but gets rave reviews from
happy
backpackers. The owner speaks English and German and
will
help you book guides or tours. Phone +593 2 3900441, email
elrociomindohostal@hotmail.com, or ask for directions at the bus
station.
Mindo's independent
tourist
information office is very capably run by enthusiastic
volunteers and offers advice on hotels, guides, tours and activities.
Latest news in February 2008 is that the town
council has evicted them from their rustic little office on the corner
of the town square and it will take them a few weeks to organise a new
office, probably further up the main road, above the square -
ask around for latest details. In the meantime, many shops
and travel agencies lower down the main road claim to be "tourist
information offices", but of course are offering only their own
products. However, they are still a good source of
information and most are friendly and helpful.
Serious birdwatchers
in Mindo should ask around for a good guide and ensure that they take
you to a
cock of the rock lek to see one of Mindo's most famous birds.
Take your own binoculars. A birdwatching guide is
likely to cost around $30 for 5-6 hours, maybe more if they speak
English, so you may want to get a group
together to split the cost. Dawn and dusk are the best times
to see many birds. Try 'La Isla'
on the main street for birding information or ask at the tourist
information office. If you are in Mindo around Christmas you
might like to participate in the annual Christmas Bird Count, an
international event in which Mindo appears in the top 3 most years.
Last year (December 2007) 425 different types of birds were
spotted in the Mindo area in a 24 hour period.
Of Mindo's butterfly farms or
'mariposarios', the most professional is around 3km out of
the village - a clearly signposted walk or short taxi ride.
$3 entry. The best 'orquideario' (orchid collection)
is
Jardín de Orquídeas just off the corner of the
sports ground - the owners are passionate about orchids and offer a
guided tour with all sorts of interesting details ($1.50, Spanish
only). To see and photograph dozens of hummingbirds,
Jardines
Nathaly is the place to go. It's signposted from all around
the village and also has butterflies and orchids, though not many.
Entry $2 just for hummingbirds, $3 including orchids and
butterflies. You can also see plenty of hummingbirds and a few
butterflies at Mariposas de Colores, a 10-15 minute walk up the
road towards La Y, and the location for the highly recommended
'frog concert'
(6p.m. daily, $2.50 including a glass of wine). It has a
great restaurant for dinner afterwards and for the ultimate in romantic
meals, a 'floating restaurant' - a raft with table and seats so you can
dine whilst drifting across the small lake.
The Mindo aquarium
(acuario), $2, near the church won't keep you occupied for more than
about 8 minutes. Horses
can be hired from various places
around town, for example at El Carmelo de Mindo, on the road beyond the
sports ground. Many places around town can organise guides
for hikes and birdwatching. Your hotel may help you arrange
guides and some will even negotiate a discount for you.
Quadbikes (cuadrones) are available to rent, but the
pollution, noise and damage they cause are not at all good for the
wildlife - please find a more environmentally-responsible way to enjoy
all that Mindo has to offer.
Mindo's main street has a
few restaurants and the odd icecream parlour. Many of the
hotels also have restaurants and smaller hostals may cook for you on
request. El Chef, near the bridge,
offers good value set lunch almuerzos at around $2 and local
specialities such as trout cooked on a hot griddle (trucha a la
plancha). Work up an appetite with the 10-15 minute walk up
the hill towards the main road then enjoy probably the best steak in
Ecuador in beautiful surroundings at Mariposas de Colores.
The trout is also excellent and vegetarians are not forgotten
with vegetable pasta, or egg dishes on request.
Mindo has no banks or
cash machines, so take along enough cash for your visit. Some
of the
smarter
hotels and restaurants take credit cards although there is often a
small charge for this due to the high fees imposed by the banks.
They might even give you a cash advance on your credit card
in an emergency, but it will be costly. Taxis (usually pickup
trucks) charge a minimum of $1.50 in Mindo.
Weekends
and bank holidays get very busy and Mindo becomes crowded with
day trippers from Quito. Accommodation is full and noisy,
you're likely to have to wait for a table in restaurants and Mindo's
usual peace, tranquility and birdlife is disturbed by some
ecologically-unaware visitors careering about on quadbikes.
Visit Mindo during the week to see more wildlife, receive
better service and enjoy a more relaxed atmosphere. Better
still, make the most of our 15% discount on weekday Mindo
accommodation - see the Special
Offers & Discounts page for details.
Direct
buses
to Mindo
leave from the Terminal Microregional
La Ofelia in the north of Quito. To get there, the Corredor
Central Norte "Linea
Azul"
trolleybus system runs from Marin Central / Espejo in the south of the
city, along
Avenida America and Avenida de la Prensa and costs just $0,25.
The bus stops are the covered structures in the middle of the
road - pay on the way in, make sure you are going in the right
direction.
Alternatively a taxi from La Mariscal to La Ofelia will cost
around $5.
The journey to Mindo costs $2.50 and takes just over
two
hours from
La Ofelia. Buy your tickets from the Flor del Valle
ticket
office at La Ofelia in plenty of time, especially at weekends.
The best
views
of the steep, forested
hills are
to be had from the right-hand side of the bus.
On
arrival in
Mindo it's a good idea to buy your return ticket in advance, especially
if you plan to leave on a weekend afternoon when the buses fill up very
quickly. If you miss your
return bus, or want to continue to the coast, take a camioneta up to La
Y and flag down any suitable passing bus.
Mindo
bus timetable (Flor del Valle):
Quito to Mindo:
Monday-Friday: 8.15a.m. and 4p.m.
Saturday: 7.35am, 8.15a.m., 9.15a.m. and
4p.m.
Sunday: 7.35am, 8.15a.m., 9.15a.m., 2p.m. and 5p.m.
Mindo to Quito:
Monday-Friday: 6.30a.m. and 2p.m.
Saturday: 6.30a.m., 2.p.m., 3.30p.m. and 5p.m.
Sunday: 6.30a.m., 2p.m., 3p.m.,
4p.m. and 5p.m.
(Correct as of
January 2008, no changes planned but you can call the Flor del Valle
office in Mindo on +593 2 3900471
to check times).
Alternatively
take any bus travelling the 'Los Bancos' route between Quito and La
Independencia - for example, Transportes Kennedy or Occidental from the
Terminal Terrestre in Quito, or some (not all) of the Transportes
Esmeraldas buses - and get off at "La Y" above Mindo. It's
around an hour and a half to walk downhill from there to Mindo, or $3
or so for a camioneta - there's usually one waiting at the junction.
Transportes Kennedy also offers direct buses between Mindo
and
Santo
Domingo.
Ecuador
Destinations: Mindo
Mindo is just a couple of hours from Quito and offers protected forest,
fantastic bird watching, adventure activities and beautiful scenery,
all in a warm subtropical climate.